FuelThe Charles Restaurant Review

Scott Shagory

August 8th, 2019

Rated 3/5

The Charles is a venue of two minds – a dedicated farm-to-table ethos with strong relationships to local farmers and a service relationship with diners that can sometimes be a longer distance affair. But there is redemption in this story too – from a runner who noticed I had no silverware, no menu, and no water after 15 minutes while sitting on the patio to the host who remember who I was on a second visit. Thankfully, the food can be very good at this outpost in the quiet town of La Plata, MD.

Creamy gray with black exterior accents, the restaurant has popular carve outs – a main dining area, a bar with plenty of seating, and a patio with 10 tables. The patio is appealing with yellow votive lights dancing from the patio’s edge, black tables and chairs with comfortable patterned cushions, and some planters with a bit of greenery.

On my first visit, I ordered a cup of their cream of crab and corn soup to start and it arrived table side with plenty of fresh crab and tender corn, celery, parley, a touch of paprika, and a bit of kick under the hood. A bag of oyster crackers was included too. Not surprisingly, the crab was notable for its short drive from the bay, clean flavors, and translucent white color.

Dinner was their steak frites – eight ounce hanger steak, anchovy butter and a mixed green salad, which was a substitute for the frites. The steak was correctly cooked medium and included a bit of char – which I enjoy both for texture and taste – to remind me it came off a real grill. The hanger was very flavorful and tender and obviously hadn’t traveled far. The greens were very fresh, the feta cheese mild and firm, the radish and onion slices thin and crisp, and the micro tomatoes had great flavor. The vinaigrette was a bit heavy, but preferences vary here.

My imbibing dance partner was a Pol Clement sparkling rose. Mid-salmon pink, the sparkler had good bubbles, soft red berry flavors, dry mid-palate balance, and did a good job balancing out the entree and side salad.

Dessert was their mango key lime pie – cinnamon graham cracker crust, lime custard, creme, and mango sauce. The crust was buttery tender and the custard was very creamy, with some wonderful lime flavors. The dollop of creme was very fresh and light. The mango sauce was a bit astringent and bitter, so I worked around it.

My second visit, while reviewing the Jaguar XK, had me sitting in the bar area during lunch hour. I ordered their mixed green salad, with the addition of some shrimp, and a glass of 2016 riesling from Barnard Griffin in Washington State. The salad was a mix of mesclun, feta, radishes, small tomatoes, and red onion with an apple cider vinaigrette. Each ingredient from the garden was fresh and bright, the feta young and mild, and the vinaigrette handed out of touch of sweetness. Combined with four gently grilled shrimp, the salad hit the spot on this 100F degree day. The riesling was predominantly dry with aromas of apple and some orange zest combined with honeysuckle and pear mid-palate. The overall profile reminded me of a pinot gris, with the Barnard Griffin’s off dry characteristics.

I still had some room so I ordered their brûléed cheesecake. A combination of graham cracker and pecan crust, creme brûlée flavored cake, caramel sauce and a dash of mint for color, this mild mannered dish let me taste everything. The crust was buttery, yet cracked nicely under the pressure from my fork. The caramel sauce had plenty of depth against the crust and custard and the creme brûlée experience was front and center.

On this visit my server, and indeed all of the servers in the bar area, we right on top of each party in the restaurant. So my order was taken efficiently and everything ran smoothly. Overall, I have enjoyed my two visits and certainly appreciate the restaurant’s focus on farms and purveyors local to the county. Driving through the area in the Jaguar XK was a reminder of how rural southern Maryland can be – even in 2019. So, if your travels take you into Charles County and La Plata, The Charles is worth a visit.

The Charles
417 Charles Street
La Plata, MD 20646
(301) 392-5116
www.thecharleslp.com
https://goo.gl/maps/AsZnd3BGyBn8Ku9Y9

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