Trattoria Villagio is an oasis of deep red along Main Street in Clifton, VA, although calling it a main road is a misnomer.  Running from one end to the other takes about 25 seconds – provided you don’t trip on the railroad tracks.  The trattoria has terracotta pots holding guard out front and a porch for people watching and keeping out of the sun.

Large windows flank either side of the front door and upon entering you’re greeted by a bar on the left and seating to the right, all wrapped in a blanket of brick, mocha floors, wood tables, and black chairs.  In the back more seating awaits and there is a large patio beyond.  A mixture of stone facade, couches, awnings, heating lamps and a fireplace, this outdoor space is a popular destination.

Trattoria Villagio is also a study in contrasts. 

My inaugural visit for lunch had me ordering their popular tagliatelle bolognese and a glass of Collosorbo Rosso di Montalcino.  Post order a side of bread and a swirling plate of olive oil and balsamico magically appeared.  The bolognese arrived shortly afterward and looked the part.  Orange tinged sauce, thanks to a soffritto of carrot, celery and onion, shared bowl space with chopped tomatoes, and ground beef.  Long, flat ribbons of egg pasta were textured enough to hold a bit of the sauce and care was evident in its presentation. 

But the dish all fell a bit flat in the mouth – our laboratory of the senses.  The meat’s baritone timber missed, the sauce lacked distinction, and the pasta couldn’t cover for the shortfall.  The dish was somewhat under seasoned too and I’m not often adding salt and pepper.  Bolognese typically gives a chef more leeway to improvise and maintain that rich texture and flavor we all enjoy. 

I suspect the stumble reflects 21st century wishes – resulting in a lighter dish – and I completely respect this desire.  But then add some lean pork and other ingredients to enrich the entree and fulfill its promise.  On the whole, the tagliatelle is a solid entree for Aunt Margaret who enjoys the familiar and domesticated presented well.

The Collosorbo was a bigger success story.  100% sangiovese, red berry aromas, good tannic structure, dry mid-palate, and a bit rustic with some oak aging, the Rosso di Montalcino would be a good foil for meat and other medium bodied dishes.  As the tagliatelle bolognese was lighter than expected the matchup wasn’t perfect.  Nevertheless, this inky, purple colored red was enjoyable and would be a hit with a fuller meal.

On my second visit for brunch, while reviewing the Audi S4, I ordered a half serving of their insalata italiana to start, their margherita pizza, and a glass of Castello D’Albola Chianti Classico.

The mixed greens were fresh along with the half moon cucumbers and julienned carrots.  Small red tomatoes rounded out the trio.  The dressing was lightly applied and as a whole, the salad came together well.  My pizza arrived shortly after finishing the first course and had the requisite ingredients – fresh mozzarella pieces nestled in a low tide of tomato sauce with basil pieces strewn around.  A good dose of brown crust kept everything orderly edge to edge.  Yeasty flavors were on-hand for the tastebuds to enjoy as was the best ingredient – the mozzarella.  Not really Neapolitan, but on the thinner side, the trattoria’s margherita is a decent affair with quality ingredients put together with care.

The Chianti Classico, 95% sangiovese and 5% canaiolo, had aromas of red berries, particularly cherries, with flavors of strawberry and cherry dominating.  Aged in Slavonian oak for 12 months, the Chianti had solid structure and balance and would be a good choice for red sauced and heartier dishes.

Restaurant staff on different visits were upbeat and well versed with the food and beverage menus and had tasted many of the choices on offer.  Looking around, diners seemed similarly pleased with the vibe of the place and how they were being treated.  Most diners didn’t talk on their phones either – a welcome relief. 

The sum of Trattoria Villagio’s parts:  focus on their decent pizzas, heartier dishes, good wine list, and the patio for al fresco dining.  Leave the bread and pastas for those who prefer a meal that’s very middle of the road.

Trattoria Villagio
7145 Main Street
Clifton, VA  20124
(703) 543-2030
https://goo.gl/maps/BR3XdrJwbJakfieZA